Our time out in the country was freakin’ magnificent. Yep. That’s my way of saying it.
Tucked away among the giant wheels of hay, sprawling lines of grapes and acres of fig trees, there is a magical place called Domaine Les Jourdis. Back in the states when I was pouring over Expedia, Booking and Yelp, I had the sheer luck of stumbling upon this oasis. I booked it immediately, hoping that its myriad glowing reviews weren’t some kind of hoax.
Ohhhhhh they were not a hoax at all.
With just a handful of rooms and a separate family-sized gite, Domaine Les Jourdis is the epitome of a chic yet casual B&B. Proprietors Antoinette and her husband Didier are lovely hosts, boasting fluency in five languages between them. Once you get past the enthusiastic greeting of their trusty dalmatian, Fiji, they welcome you with open arms and warm smiles.
Our cottage (originally a small stable, the old beamed ceiling and stone walls remained) was heaven on earth. Bigger than most of my apartments have been, it housed a huge canopy bed, separate lounging area, and large bathroom complete with a crazy disco jacuzzi tub! Really, it lit up and everything!
Over the next four days we lounged by the pool and took a long hike about the grounds with Fiji. We ventured into Sainte Foy la Grande, accidentally discovered a huge grocery store, and had the most simple yet epic picnic of my life.
We enjoyed the bustle of the night market in Duras, celebrating with new and old friends over bottles of rosé and cartons of moules and frites.
We attended the wedding of dear friends, a ceremony high on a hill in Monteton, then a gorgeous reception at a vineyard.
I will never forget our time there. My breath catches in my chest when I think back on our adventures, on the romance, on the saccharine simplicity.
I can still hear the bells of the church tower down the road, smell the rain on dirt paths and ancient vines, hear the commotion of the night market dimmed slightly by the copious amounts of wine in my system, feel the warmth of my husband’s hand in mine as we took in the violet sunsets lighting up over the fields, taste the ripe tomatoes and unctuous camembert of our picnic washed down with two bottles of Saint-Emilion wine.
I hope that if you ever find yourself driving through the rolling hills just outside of Bordeaux, that you will look up Domaine Les Jourdis. I doubt that you could have a bad time anywhere in this gorgeous region, but I can’t recommend the extra special hospitality of Antoinette and Didier enough. And if you’re a dog lover…I’m sure you’ll find the hound Fiji as unforgettable as we did.